12 August 2023
Jérôme Jaegle: A Taste at Full Maturity
At 44, the Alsatian chef exudes a peaceful strength, rooted in the terroir where he grew up and whose values shape a cuisine nourished by emotions and memories. Intuitive and in constant dialogue with nature, this humanist chef continues his quiet ascent to the top.
By Laurence Gounel
By inaugurating Alchémille in his native region, this Kaysersberg- born chef has vowed to return to his roots and to uphold the values that he passes on to his children: the strength of the land, the region and the elders. While the plains, mountains, vineyards and the Rhine provide him with a fabulous playground, maturity has given him the freedom to be ‘content’ with the things he holds dear.
“By rediscovering here everything I love- I realize that I have never cooked so freely. I no longer want to be showy. My cooking is straightforward, honest and reflects my emotions and my sensitivity to the Alsatian terroir.”
This realization began two years before the restaurant opened, during which time he took a break to “to make a clean slate” after distinguishing himself as a successful competitor on the national and international scene. It was during this break that he discovered plants from abroad, one of the common threads running through his cuisine (two per dish, never more). “It was my meditation.” Just like sleeping outdoors, close to nature, a habit that still catches up with him today.
The building where Chef Jérôme Jaegle’s restaurant is located, a former betting shop where he has kept childhood memories of sitting with his grandfather, reflects the chef’s return to his roots. Perfectly located, this place is the core of a unique ecosystem and biotope, an endless source of inspiration, just like a fishing trip or an afternoon spent with the children… From the plates to the smallest piece of furniture, from the staff’s jeans to the fabrics on the armchairs and the tables carved from local wood by the hometown carpenter, every detail tells a story about the chef or the region. Like the acacia wood marshal’s baton at the front door, which the chef went to fetch himself and whose discreet crack echoes his vision of life, which is never smooth…
“ On the plate and in the dining room, everything makes sense and nothing is random. Just as I pour myself into every dish, I take my entire team to meet a different local producer every Thursday. This is to raise their awareness and offer them something more than just a simple description of a dish. That’s what it means to be a place with a soul. It means giving your all, down to the smallest detail and at every level. And it means ensuring that every single gesture shows respect for the ingredients. Cutting bread is no trivial matter. Everything is important: the knife you use and the butter too, which must be served at the right temperature. ”
True pleasure can only be offered with authenticity and a desire to stand out by pushing the boundaries of signature cuisine. Just like the work done on fish maturation: butcher-style cutting ensures that each part, whether fatty, stringy or dry, is cooked to perfection, and a 20- to 30-day maturation process brings out the flavors, just as it does with meat. The same tailor-made approach is taken with the in-house maturing of cheeses and the production of all the charcuterie.
Although Jérôme Jaegle was already ‘self-sufficient’ in vegetables long before the restaurant opened, the vegetable garden now provides 80% of the ingredients for the menus. Five plots covering 4,000 m² contribute to this, along with an anti-waste policy and a commitment to using all parts of fish and meat, helping the restaurant to earn a green star in 2020.
Jérôme Jaegle’s three allies and their three areas of savoir-faire
JULIEN SCHAFFHAUSER, SOUS-CHEF
“ He’s my right-hand man and has been with us since the restaurant opened. He’s part of the core team, and I give him plenty of freedom to express himself. It’s rare to find a partner with whom you have such professional chemistry. I appreciate his younger, more uninhibited approach to cooking. ”
FRANÇOIS LA COUR, POTTER
“I have great respect for him as a professional and as a person. We discuss textures, shapes, enamels, but not only that: we also talk about life! His work with ash-based enamel (he uses ash from our wood stove) produces beautiful gradient effects.”
JÉRÉMY FUCHS, FISHERMAN
“ He’s the only professional fisherman in Alsace. He’s 36 years old and took over the business from a senior fisherman. It takes courage to be out on a boat on the Rhine at 4 a.m. in all weathers! He supplies me with fish once a week. Asp, bream, catfish, carp… I have access to around forty varieties, some of which are impossible to find anywhere else. ”
Chef Jérôme Jaegle is a member of Teritoria, a community of independent restaurateurs and hoteliers, architects of committed hospitality in Europe since 1975. Teritoria hoteliers and restaurateurs are committed to protecting the environment and respecting people and living things. To receive inspiring stories from our members directly in your inbox, sign up for our newsletter. To treat a loved one to an unforgettable experience at Alchémille restaurant, visit our gift shop.
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