Dordogne: an authentic witness to the past

Cover photo: The Dordogne River in the town of La Roque-Gageac ©Shutterstock/CristiDumi_

Article in collaboration with the CRTL Dordogne-Périgord, Nouvelle-Aquitaine

Nestled in the heart of southwestern France, the Dordogne is an emblematic department that was created during the French Revolution. Rich in history, it is home to prehistoric treasures such as the famous Lascaux caves, veritable sanctuaries of rock art. The Dordogne is also a territory with an exceptional heritage. It boasts a rich heritage, with numerous monuments listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites, including Cadouin Abbey, Saint-Front Cathedral, Notre-Dame de Bonne-Espérance Abbey and even its own cheese, Trappe d’Échourgnac. Teritoria invites you to discover the charm of this region, which deserves to be better known.

Three castles to discover: Teritoria’s selection

The Dordogne has 10 castles, but for tourists looking for authenticity and visits off the beaten track, Teritoria recommends these three castles, each with a different style but all representing an era.

Château des Milandes, Castelnaud-la-Chapelle 

Former home of Josephine Baker, the castle blends tradition and modernity, combining the history of this iconic figure with an escape game dedicated to her life. Originally owned by the aristocratic Caumont family since the 10th century, it was purchased in 1900 by an industrialist committed to its preservation. In the 1950s, Josephine Baker created her ‘village of the world’ here. She fell in love with the place in the 1930s, where she married Jo Bouillon, settled down to write her memoirs and raise her ‘rainbow family’ of twelve children. She performed here, inviting Duke Ellington and Jacques Brel to join her. In 2025, she has been honoured with a place in the Panthéon, yet she remains omnipresent at the castle, where visitors can admire her famous banana belt and a statue of her kissing one of her children.

However, this is not the castle’s unique feature. The garden, classified as a Remarkable Garden and Historic Monument, was designed by Jules Vacherot, head gardener of the City of Paris during the 1900 World’s Fair.

And, spread over six hectares, the park is home to 60 protected birds of prey, in support of the association for landscape preservation, species and biodiversity protection. Discover the park’s aviary and the projects to reintroduce the Ural owl in Bavaria and white-tailed eagles to Lake Geneva.

Château de Beynac, Beynac-et-Cazenac 

Perched atop a cliff, the castle‘s been watching over the Dordogne for nine centuries. Its walls still echo with the footsteps of Richard the Lionheart, Simon de Montfort, and the Estates General during the Hundred Years‘ War. Surrounded by water in autumn, the medieval castle can only be reached by gabarre (traditional flat-bottomed boat).

Highlights include the keep, guard room, Périgord Council Chamber, oratory, 17th-century staircase, wood-panelled salons, terrace on the spur, barbican and drawbridge. Enjoy a step back in time!

Château de Hautefort 

The only classic castle in the Périgord region, it immerses you in 17th-century elegance. Former home of the Marquis d’Hautefort, it welcomed Colbert, the Baroness of Bastard and several ministers of Louis XIV. Damaged by a fire in 1968, it now offers a 360° sensory immersion into the event. The entrance includes access to a 17th-century kitchen with an original bread oven.

The 30-hectare park combines an English garden, designed by royal gardener Choulot and inspired by the poet Alexander Pope, with a French garden in the spirit of Le Nôtre. A monumental park to be admired from the tower, perched on its rocky spur.

Authentic landscapes of the Dordogne

It is said that prehistoric humans chose to settle in the Dordogne because of its rolling landscapes, winding rivers and limestone cliffs. It’s not surprising why.

Dordogne gold: nature

The cingles of the Dordogne, between Montfort and Trémolat, the river forms spectacular loops called ‘cingles’. The views from the suspended roads or limestone cliffs are breathtaking.

The Esplanade de Domme overlooks the Dordogne valley. From the esplanade, the river winds endlessly. Time seems to stand still.

Finally, for a different kind of exploration, the Périgord Vert rail bike offers a 14 km round-trip bucolic bike ride to Saint-Andrieux, combining nature, heritage and simple pleasures. 

Villages and legends

Between Castelnaud, Marqueyssac and Beynac, the castles stand proudly atop their rocky outcrops. From the hanging gardens of Marqueyssac, the view of La Roque-Gageac is spectacular. This village, nestled between cliffs and rivers, alone justifies the nickname ‘valley of castles’.

Classified as one of the Most Beautiful Villages in France, La Côte de Jor, in Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère, offers a priceles view from paragliders. The Vézère Valley reveals all its charm and prehistoric heritage. Opposite Lalinde, the Romanesque Chapelle Saint-Front du Colubri watches over the river. The legend of the dragon Coulobre, who was defeated here, gives place to an aura of mystery. The view of the valley is outstanding.

The Dordogne has much more to offer thant its castles and caves. It is a lively terroir, diverse and deeply rooted in its history. For a truly authentic experience, get off the beaten track and let yourself be guided by the raw beauty of this unspoilt landscape. Plan your stay in the Dordogne and discover our selection of gift ideas in our gift shop. If you enjoyed this article, get inspired every month: sign up to our newsletter to receive inspiring stories, secret itineraries and travellers’ tales directly in your inbox. Already convinced? Join our loyalty programme and enjoy exclusive benefits in every Teritoria establishment.

By Emilie FALLOT NGUYEN