On the other side of the Dolomites

By Nadia Hamam · Cover photo: © Unsplash / Lucas Chizzali

Sublime and awe-inspiring, the Dolomites are unlike any other mountains. Le Corbusier, the renowned French-Swiss architect, painter, and designer, once described them as “the most beautiful architecture in the world.” In 2009, UNESCO recognized them as a World Heritage Site. Every corner of this vast natural playground is brimming with wonders. 

An Unusual Geography

The Dolomites form a truly unique region within the Alps, located in the lesser-known northern part of Italy. Stretching across Veneto, Trentino-Alto Adige, and Friuli-Venezia Giulia, these “pale mountains”, as they were known before 18th-century French geologist Déodat Gratet de Dolomieu studied them, rise from a mountainous base at 2,300 metres above sea level. 

Their lace-like ridges and cliffs are reminiscent of the dramatic peaks found in Canadian national parks. Both small and grand geological wonders can be explored, by car, and of course, on foot. From Dino Buzzati to Paolo Rumiz, many writers have captured in black and white the striking visual power of these landscapes, which continue to draw mountaineers from around the world. 

The Three Peaks (Tre Cime di Lavaredo) are the emblem of the Dolomites, majestic formations that demand contemplation.  In the heart of winter, a snowshoe hike from Lake Santa Caterina offers a panoramic view of the south face of these strange menhirs, as if fallen from the sky. Another natural wonder worth seeing is the Cinque Torri: five rocky spires visible from the road crossing the Falzarego Pass. Their base can be reached on snowshoes, by ski lift, or by car heading toward the Pordoi Pass at 2,242 metres. On the way, you’ll navigate 28 hairpin bends on one side and 33 on the other, ending with a funicular ride that brings visitors up to 3,000 metres. 

As an added bonus, you’ll feel as if you’re floating between the sky and the treetops. For a magical winter excursion, head to the iconic Lake Braies, which vanishes beneath a layer of ice and snow. The lakes of Dobbiaco, Landro, and Misurina reflect either a frosty white or turquoise blue surface, depending on the temperature. You can walk around them or take short hikes that offer a bit of elevation. At sunrise or sunset, the views are unforgettable. 

Skiing, Italian Style 

In winter, the Dolomites transform into a paradise for snow sports enthusiasts, home to some of the most beautiful and expansive ski areas in Europe. The Dolomiti Superski pass, granting access to around 30 resorts, is ideal for exploring the entire massif. Cortina d’Ampezzo stole our hearts, the region’s most iconic ski resort and future co-host of the 2026 Winter Olympics alongside Milan. The town is encircled by stunning peaks, each more breathtaking than the last. 

Enjoy breathtaking panoramic views from your car as you drive toward Misurina or Poco, or take them in on skis along two remarkable alpine circuits. The Sellaronda is one of the world’s most iconic ski routes, spanning 40 kilometres through four of the five Ladin valleys. The Great War circuit extends for 80 kilometres, linking sites of remembrance with majestic mountain scenery. 

A unique experience: at the foot of the Armentarola slope, swap the ski lift for a ride on a sleigh pulled by Haflingers, the sturdy, sure-footed horses of South Tyrol. 

A Strong Culture 

Welcome to Ladin country! Behind these enchanting Alpine landscapes lies an ancient culture, proudly and passionately upheld by mountain people with a strong sense of identity.  Although Ladins make up just 0.1% of Italy’s population, they have preserved a rich tapestry of colorful traditions, offering visitors a delightful sense of exoticism in the heart of Europe. Alongside Italian, both German and Ladin are spoken here. 

Still spoken by more than 30,000 people, this Rhaeto-Romance language is also thriving in Switzerland and exists in a multitude of regional variants. Each Ladin valley has its own traditional embroidered costume, often seen during the many festivals and celebrations that fill the local calendar. The Ladin spirit also lives on through ancestral savoir-faire, revived by passionate artisans and artists: silver wire jewellery in Ampezzo, wood carving in Val Gardena, decorative painting in Val di Fassa, and hand-painted wooden chests in Alta Badia. And of course, there’s the cuisine, deeply rooted in Ladin tradition, with unmistakable Austro-Hungarian influences. 

High-Altitude Gastronomy 

Italian skiing is synonymous with la dolce vita and epicurean pleasures. With its variations on Knödel, goulash, and turtle cake, delicious filled crêpes and more, Ladin cuisine flirts with pasta while honouring its Alpine roots. South Tyrol boasts around twenty Michelin-starred restaurants, an impressive number for a region with just 500,000 inhabitants. Trentino, meanwhile, counts half a dozen Michelin-starred chefs. Alta Badia is especially known for its cuisine, blending Germanic and Mediterranean influences, and showcased each winter during the Sciare con gusto (“Skiing with Taste”) event. 

In the mountains, refuges also collaborate with chefs from across Italy. Each stop features a signature dish and wine tasting at over 2,000 metres, with breathtaking scenery as the backdrop. And don’t miss the “bombardino”, a rich, comforting cocktail made with egg liqueur, coffee, and a splash of rum or cognac, guaranteed to warm hikers and skiers alike. 

The region is renowned for its excellent white wines, with grape varieties shared with Alsace, such as Gewürztraminer, Riesling, and Sylvaner. Among the local reds, indigenous varieties like Lagrein, Schiava, and Teroldego are increasingly produced using biodynamic methods. During the wine event Sommeliers on the Slopes, you can pick up a few bottles, along with herb-based brandies and local liqueurs. Don’t forget to bring back some speck, the region’s famous smoked ham cured at high altitude, and cheeses like Agordino di malga (a Slow Food product) or Stilfser. 

Getting There by Train 

Yes, you can explore the Dolomites without a car! Bus networks cover the entire region, and numerous cable cars and historic funiculars take you up into the peaks. By train, the stations in Verona, Venice, and Innsbruck offer direct connections to the mountains. It takes around 9 hours to reach one of these stations from Paris, and only slightly longer from London. 

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Our Nearby Address :

Alp & Wellness Sport Hotel Panorama, Fai della Paganella Trentino-Alto Adige 

Chic and cosy interiors, sweeping views of Mount Paganella, refined local cuisine, and attentive hospitality from Francesca Mottes and Maurizio Giuliani, this hidden gem is perfect for recharging in the heart of nature. We especially love the spa area, featuring no fewer than seven heated pools, plus a tennis court and a well-equipped fitness area. 

VIA OTTORINO CARLETTI, 6,  

38010 FAI DELLA PAGANELLA TN, ITALIE 

TEL : +39 0461 583134 

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