Category: Travel diaries

Cover photo: Cliff in the Bay of Somme © Shutterstock /Wilfried Photo

Often overshadowed by its more high-profile neighbours like Pas-de-Calais, Aisne is nonetheless a region full of unexpected riches. Nestled in the southern part of Hauts-de-France, this département combines a gentle way of life with rich historical heritage and bucolic landscapes. Here, there’s no mass tourism or overdone façades, Aisne offers an authentic, sincere France that takes its time and invites you to do the same.

A vibrant and generous campaign

As you leave the main roads behind, Aisne reveals its rolling valleys, hedgerows, and small villages, nestled like pearls on a green carpet. Samoussy, Vervins, Septmonts, Rozoy-sur-Serre, each has its own unique atmosphere, often marked by a bell tower, a market hall, or a cosy bistro. The Aisne countryside moves to the rhythm of the seasons, local markets, and village festivals. Its inhabitants preserve a simple, welcoming art of living rooted in closeness, conviviality, and local produce.

Take the time to chat with a market gardener in the market square, taste apple juice pressed the day before, or buy bread made with natural yeast, simple gestures that reconnect you with the essentials. Teritoria’s advice: slow down, taste, observe. Aisne isn’t a place you just pass through, it’s a place to experience.

The Aisne, the hidden land of champagne

Few people know it, but around 10% of the champagne produced each year in France comes from the Aisne. In the south of the département, around Trélou-sur-Marne, vineyards stretch in gentle curves along the slopes of the Marne Valley. Family-run producers like Mme Fleury-Gille and Météyer Père & Fils continue to practise their precise craft, often passed down through generations.

Champagne from the Aisne stands out for its balance: lesser-known cuvées are often more expressive, with a focus on soil cultivation and traditional winemaking methods. Visiting a cellar here is like stepping into a world where people speak of climate, patience, and hand-picked grapes.

Maroilles, a cheese with character

Another flagship product of the Aisne is Maroilles cheese. At the Fontaine Orion farm, in the bocage landscape of Thiérache, Aurélie Halleux-Labroche opens the doors to her vaulted cellars. Here, the cheese matures slowly in constant humidity, under the watchful eye of the cheesemaker.

Maroilles isn’t just a strong-smelling cheese, it’s an expression of terroir, shaped by wet meadows, local dairy cows, and ancestral techniques. Enjoy it with rustic bread and a craft beer from the region.

Explore nature differently: a walk in a bacôve in Saint-Quentin

In Saint-Quentin, the Isle marshes offer an unexpected breath of fresh air in the heart of the city. Explore them in a bacôve, a traditional flat-bottomed boat, gliding between reeds, ducks, and water lilies. It’s a gentle, poetic way to discover this protected wetland.

The city itself surprises visitors with its cheerful atmosphere: Art Deco façades, a covered market, an impressive basilica, and flowers everywhere make it a bright, welcoming place, far from the clichés of northern industrial cities.

Breathtaking landscapes in the Aisne

Even without direct access to the sea, Aisne is an excellent location for exploring the great natural wonders of the Hauts-de-France region. The Baie de Somme, less than a two-hour drive away, is one of Europe’s most unique ecosystems. A boat trip to observe seals offers a mix of wonder and discovery, provided you respect the distances and the local wildlife.

To the north, the cliffs of Cap Blanc-Nez, near Escalles, offer spectacular views of the English Channel, and on clear days, you can see all the way to the English coast. For fans of slow tourism, the regional nature parks and the Baie de Somme coastline are accessible by bike from Aisne. Cycling and nature trails, forest paths, and greenways dotted with gourmet stops, here, life moves at a different pace. The region also boasts remarkable historical and architectural heritage.

Laon, a medieval town steeped in secrets

Former capital of the Carolingian kingdom and today the capital of the Aisne département, Laon is a hilltop town well worth a visit. Its 8 km of ramparts, cobbled streets, and above all, its majestic Gothic cathedral offer a vivid glimpse into medieval history. With more than 80 listed or registered monuments, it holds a record for a town of its size.

Aisne is also a land of stone and memory. Saint-Michel Abbey, Coucy Castle, and the fortresses of Thiérache bear witness to centuries of conflict, invasion, and resistance. The fortified churches, particularly numerous in Thiérache, are unique in France. Built between the 16th and 17th centuries, they served as both places of worship and refuges for the local population in times of attack.

Their massive architecture, with watchtowers and arrow slits, both intrigues and impresses, but what sets them apart is the art that adorns their façades.

Spotlight on the French Language

In Villers-Cotterêts, the Château François I is being reborn as the Cité Internationale de la Langue Française (International Centre for the French Language). A place of memory and transmission, it pays tribute to the French language, its authors, its history, and its contemporary diversity. Audiovisual displays, interactive exhibitions, and original works make it a major cultural destination.

To finish in style, just beyond the borders of Aisne, but perfectly complementary: Saint-Valery-sur-Somme, a medieval town on the edge of the bay. Cobbled streets, half-timbered houses, ever-changing light… an almost literary atmosphere, perfect for ending this journey through nature, history, and the art of living.

Want to prolong the experience? Subscribe to our newsletter to receive monthly getaway ideas in France and Italy. Discover our loyalty programme, along with gift boxes and cards, ideal for sharing a little piece of Aisne, or elsewhere, with your loved ones.

By Émilie FALLOT NGUYEN 

Cover photo: Rue des Moulins in Saint-Valéry-sur-Somme ©Shutterstock/Ralf Gosch

Nestled on the banks of the Somme Bay, Saint-Valery-sur-Somme is an inviting place for a leisurely stroll. With its cobbled streets, colourful houses, and breathtaking views over the estuary, this medieval town is one of the “Most Beautiful Detours in France“, hidden gems off the beaten path, where heritage truly comes to life

What to see and do in Saint-Valery-sur-Somme?

You can’t visit the town without being charmed by its spectacular landscapes, rich history, and local specialities. Here, maritime traditions blend with well-preserved architecture and cuisine rooted in the Picardy region. Below are some must-see attractions.

The Courtgain district and the Calvaire des Marins

A former fishing district, the Courtgain charms visitors with its narrow streets and flower-covered façades. Its low, brightly painted houses recall a time when locals fished for grey shrimp, known as la sauterelle (‘the grasshopper’).

Climb up to the Calvaire des Marins, this moving promontory offers breathtaking views over the bay. It was here that families once scanned the horizon, waiting for sailors to return.

The quays and Belle Époque villas

Stroll along the tree-lined quays named after famous navigators, where majestic 19th-century villas stand as reminders of the golden age of shipowners and sea captains.

At the far end, the beach stretches out before a row of Belle Époque mansions, evoking the splendour of the early seaside resorts.

La cité médiévale 

Enter the old town through the Porte de Nevers and follow the cobbled streets to Saint-Martin Church, with its Romanesque and Gothic influences. Walk up the Belfry route, lined with half-timbered houses, to reach the Guillaume Towers, impressive 11th-century ruins linked to William the Conqueror.

Founded in the 7th century, the Benedictine abbey has withstood the centuries despite periods of destruction. Today, the neighbourhood also features charming rural houses made of cob and brick, a testimony to a vibrant agricultural past, still celebrated during the Saint-Fiacre festivities.

The sailors’ chapel

Perched on the heights, this neo-Gothic chapel overlooks the bay. Built in honour of Saint Valery, an evangelising monk, it watches over the town from its bell tower, topped with a metal seagull that has become a local emblem. Inside, the chapel is rich in votive offerings and maritime-themed stained glass, reflecting the deep connection between faith and the sea.

From here, the view of Cape Hornu is exceptional. Legend has it that this chapel was especially dear to the wives of sailors waiting for their return…

Don’t miss the chance to taste the bay’s seafood treasures.

Discovering Saint-Valery-sur-Somme also means discovering a unique cuisine shaped by the sea, the land, and local traditions. Take the time to savour these local specialities, simple in appearance, yet surprisingly rich in flavour.

The culinary treasures of the sea

On the bay, grey shrimp, affectionately nicknamed “grasshopper” by the locals, are a true institution. Caught on foot with the tides, they’re eaten fresh and simply to appreciate their delicate, salty flavour. Alongside them, salt marsh plants offer flavours as rare as they are authentic. Salicornia, crunchy and slightly salty, adds character to fish and salads. Sea aster, also known as “pig’s ear”, surprises with its tender texture and subtle, vegetal taste.

Be careful, though, these natural treasures can’t be picked at will. Their harvesting is strictly regulated to protect the fragile ecosystem of the Somme Bay. The best way to enjoy them is still to savour them at a local restaurant or at the home of a professional fisherman.

The Picardy region

But the bay isn’t just about the sea, it’s also grounded in the generosity of the Picardy region, with family dishes rich in both flavour and memories. Bistou or bigalan, a rustic pie made with potatoes, onions, and bacon, warms the heart like a winter evening by the fire. More refined, ficelle picarde, a gratinated crêpe filled with ham and mushrooms, embodies the region’s culinary savoir-faire.

And to finish on a sweet note, it’s impossible to resist gâteau battu, a golden brioche with a light crumb and an unmistakable buttery flavour, just as delicious at breakfast as it is at afternoon tea. Here, gastronomy is more than a pleasure: it’s a way to connect with the region, to understand its rhythms, its customs, and its traditions. In Saint-Valery-sur-Somme, we don’t just admire the bay, we taste it.

It’s an immersion in living heritage, between sea and countryside, between popular traditions and religious history. Take the time to stroll, chat with the locals, and savour every moment in this gem of the Somme Bay. Along the way, discover our Teritoria establishments and earn rewards through our loyalty programme. Memories are made to be shared, so find inspiration in our newsletter, or surprise one of your loves ones with our gift cards and boxes.

By Émilie FALLOT NGUYEN 

Explore the Belfry Route in the Hauts-de-France region: Dunkirk, Lille, Douai, Cambrai, Arras, Béthune… These urban sentinels, recognized by UNESCO, embody the identity of the northern cities and the history of a fiercely defended communal freedom.

Cover photo: Village of Septmonts, Aisne, Hauts-de-France © Shutterstock / Alexandra.ROSA

The Hauts-de-France region boasts a remarkable collection of belfries, grouped under the title “Belfries of Belgium and France“. Born from the power of the medieval communes, these towers marked the hour, sounded the alarm, safeguarded charters and watched over the squares. They are recognisable by their slender silhouettes, chimes and clocks, watch platforms, spires or weather vanes, often built in brick and pale stone.

What is a belfry?

Larousse defines it as a “city tower […] where guards were stationed to watch over the countryside and a bell was hung to sound the alarm.” Beyond this function, the belfry came to symbolise civic freedom: the emblem of a city’s rights, often attached to the Town Hall, the heart of public life.

In the Middle Ages, the belfry bell regulated communal time, announced markets and celebrations, and often safeguarded charters, seals and archives in a secure room. Unlike a church bell tower, the belfry was under municipal authority and embodied the city’s ability to organise itself, levy taxes, protect its inhabitants and foster trade.

Along the Belfry Route: Inspiring Stops

Dunkirk — Two Towers, One Pride

Discover the Saint-Éloi Belfry: a climb, lift then stairs, to a 360° panorama of the town, the harbour and the beach.

Visit the Town Hall Belfry: open on special occasions (Heritage Days, Architecture Days), it celebrates the epic story of Jean Bart through a monumental stained-glass window.

Carry on your visit with a stroll from the Quai des Hollandais to the East Pier, where the chimes mingle with the sounds of the harbour. In the old town, taverns offer hearty food, the perfect comfort after the climb. On clear days, you can spot the silvery line of sandbanks edging Malo-les-Bains.

Lille — France’s tallest belfry

At the foot of the Town Hall, the Art Deco belfry rises 104 metres high (400 steps). It offers one of the most spectacular panoramic views of the city. Book a tour of Lille’s belfry to experience the magic of the carillon and the Flemish rooftops.

From the platform, the alignment of the squares and the jumble of Flemish rooftops create a relief map of the metropolis. Inside, the Art Deco belfry reveals glazed bricks, ironwork and 1930s typography. Below, the Town Hall displays its rhythmic façade like a theatre set, the perfect starting point for exploring the old stock exchange and the shopping streets.

Armentières & Bailleul — Flemish Renaissance

In Armentières, the 67-metre belfry survived the wars before being rebuilt in a Flemish Neo-Renaissance style.

In Bailleul, the yellow-brick tower (around 200 steps) dominates the Flanders hills: on a clear day, the plain stretches as far as the Lys valley.

Between Armentières and Bailleul, the Lys valley offers gentle paths linking villages, mills and meadows. Climb it in the late afternoon, when the slanting light illuminates the brickwork and lengthens the shadows on the Flanders hills. And for food lovers, craft breweries and local cheese dairies reveal another side of the region’s heritage.

Bergues — golden stones and cinema

206 steps up, light glides over the ramparts and the countryside. The Bergues belfry, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, carries the atmosphere made renowed by Welcome to the Sticks. A visit to the belfry is worth every step.

The ramparts can be explored at a leisurely pace, in step with the canals and hanging gardens. Cobbled streets, gabled houses and rows of façades create an intimate setting. From above, the geometric layout of the fortifications and the mosaic of meadows stretch all the way to the North Sea.

Douai — The City of Carillons

Gothic and proud, the Douai belfry sets the pace of the city with the sound of its famous carillon. A visit reveals the delicate lacework of its arches and, from the top, sweeping views over the Scarpe River. A must-see for anyone who enjoys the music of bells.

Regular carillon concerts envelop the city in crystal-clear music. Inside the tower, centuries-old mechanisms set bells and hammers in motion, a delicate feat of engineering that fascinates young and old alike. After your descent, stroll along the Scarpe River and let the Gothic details of the gateways lead you to the lively squares.

Cambrai — a dialogue with Saint-Martin

The Cambrai belfry lost its twisted spire in the 18th century, replaced by a dome topped with a lantern. At its base, sculptures recount episodes of local history. In the past, watchmen, known as gallus, rang the bell to signal curfew and raise the alarm.

The route reveals a subtle dialogue between white stone and slate. Classical façades stand beside medieval relics, bearing witness to a city that has risen from the ashes more than once. As you stroll along, stop at a sweet shop for a mint-flavoured bêtise, a local delicacy that will make your visit last a little longer.

Comines — the elegance of Cordonnier

Rebuilt in the late 1920s by Louis-Marie Cordonnier, the Comines belfry combines tower and town hall in a Flemish Neo-Renaissance design of rare harmony. A must for architecture enthusiasts.

The composition blends red brickwork, carved stone and sloping roofs. From the tower, you can take in the ribbon of the Lys and the pattern of the shopping streets. In the evening, the lighting highlights the columns and gables, giving the belfry the air of a benevolent watchman.

Gravelines — Small in size, big on views

Rising 27 metres high, the Gravelines belfry offers superb views over the fortified town, the quays and the boats. Perfect in summer or during Heritage Days.

The star-shaped citadel is perfectly visible from the top of the tower. The view stretches from the bastions to the canals and out to the estuary. The town has a distinctive maritime charm, with its salty sea air, fishing boats and towpaths.

Loos — Neo-Flemish Vocabulary

Built of red glazed brick, with turrets and machicolations, the 38-metre belfry of Loos illustrates the unique blend of French and Dutch Flanders. A must for anyone who appreciates architectural detail.

The watchtowers, battlements and machicolations provide a fine example of Neo-Flemish architecture. The climb reveals the workshops, breweries and old spinning mills that shaped the urban landscape. At the top, the skyline opens onto neighbouring bell towers and wooded parks.

Arras — Place des Héros and Grand Settings

The Arras belfry watches over Place des Héros and the Grand-Place, two Baroque settings unique in Europe. Climb to the top to take in the city’s regular layout and, on your way down, stroll beneath the arcades for a coffee or a local cuisine.

Before climbing the tower, descend into the boves, a network of tunnels carved into the city’s chalky subsoil. From the top, the perfect geometry of Place des Héros and the Grand-Place unfolds like a golden chessboard. As the sun sets, the lighting highlights the pediments and arcades, the ideal moment for a photo.

Béthune — an icon on the Grand-Place

The Béthune belfry rises in the middle of the Grand-Place like a stone beacon. Here, architecture provides the backdrop to daily life: markets, terraces, summer concerts. A visit to the Béthune belfry offers a wonderful glimpse into the town.

Here, the belfry serves as an urban beacon. Its silhouette guides visitors to the Grand-Place and its terraces. At the market, farm produce, butter and local beers fill a simple, authentic basket, ideal for a picnic after your visit.

Aire-sur-la-Lys — in the footsteps of the Lys River

In Aire-sur-la-Lys, the belfry rises in a town of water and bridges. Follow the trail to the banks of the Lys, where heritage meets river tranquillity.

The route runs along the river before leading into the historic centre. Bridges, wash houses and half-timbered houses create a peaceful scene. The climb is rewarded with views of dark rooftops, gardens and the ribbon of the Lys sparkling in the sun.

Boulogne-sur-Mer — Between Ramparts and the Sea Breeze

A maritime town par excellence, Boulogne-sur-Mer combines bustling high streets, ancient ramparts and a lively port atmosphere. A visit to the belfry adds a new perspective to this seaside setting.

Here, the sea is everywhere. From the tower, the fortified upper town stands out clearly before your gaze is drawn to the quays, the ramparts and the skyline. Walk back down the hillside lanes to the harbour, amid sailing boats, fishmongers and the salty scent of the sea.

Which belfry should you visit?

For a first visit, consider Lille (panoramas and Art Deco), Douai (carillons), Arras (a unique urban ensemble), Béthune (Grand-Place atmosphere) and Bergues (ramparts and countryside). If you enjoy spa towns, head to Aire-sur-la-Lys; for the sea, make your way to Boulogne-sur-Mer.

For a day trip from Lille, visit Lille, Armentières and Bailleul for panoramic views, then end the day in Béthune at sunset. If you’re after sea air, head to Bergues, Dunkirk and Gravelines. Lovers of elegant urban settings will prefer Douai, Arras and Cambrai.

FAQ — Your frequently asked questions

Which belfry is the most beautiful?

It’s a matter of taste! Arras charms with its urban setting, Douai with its musicality, Béthune with its central location, and Lille with its dizzying heights. And the most cinematic? Bergues.

Which belfry is the tallest in France?

The Lille belfry rises 104 metres high (400 steps).

What is the purpose of a belfry?

Historically: marking the time, sounding the alarm, serving as a lookout post and safeguarding charters and archives. Symbolically: representing the town’s autonomy and the organisation of community life, often alongside the Town Hall.

What is the difference between a belfry and a church?

A belfry is a civic tower: it belongs to the town. A church is a religious building. It can be confusing when bell towers and belfries stand side by side in the same square, but their functions are different.

Why are belfries built? And why especially in the North?

Because the communes of Flanders and Artois asserted their rights against feudal power very early, the belfry came to symbolise communal freedoms. This phenomenon is found in northern France and Belgium, hence the joint UNESCO listing.

Which belfry should you visit in Lille?

The Town Hall: open to visitors, exceptional views, guaranteed Art Deco immersion.

Recommended itinerary — 3 days on the Belfry Route

Day 1 — Lille, Armentières, Bailleul

Morning: visit to Lille Belfry (booking recommended).

Lunch: market or table d’hôte near the Town Hall.

Afternoon: Armentières then Bailleul, for the neo-Renaissance architecture and panoramic views over the Lys valley.

Day 2 — Bergues, Dunkirk, Gravelines

Morning: visit Bergues belfry (206 steps, wonderful view).

Lunch: Dunkirk harbour (fish market, taverns).

Afternoon: Saint-Éloi belfry in Dunkirk, stop at Gravelines for its panoramic view of the fortified town.

Day 3 — Douai, Cambrai, Arras, Béthune

Morning: Douai and its carillons.

Lunch: Cambrai (discover the dome and sculptures).

Afternoon: Arras (Place des Héros, visit the belfry), end the day in Béthune to soak up the atmosphere of the Grand-Place.

Sustainable transport: high-speed rail links to Lille-Flandres, a dense network connecting towns and cities, and short journeys, ideal for hopping between attractions without a car.

Practical advice

• Seasons: spring and summer for unobstructed views; autumn for soft light on the façades; winter for carillons and markets.
• Reservations: some tower visits (Lille, Dunkirk/Town Hall) are open on specific dates. Check the timetable the day before.
• Style of visit: alternate between climbing and strolling from square to square; between climbs, enjoy a local restaurant that showcases regional produce.

Extend your journey along the Belfry Route

Climbing these towers is like touching the soul of a region: chimes, sweeping views, carved stone… Each belfry tells the story of a city, its memory and its spirit. To extend the experience, visit our gift shop (cards & gift boxes), subscribe to the newsletter and join our loyalty programme: at each stage of the Belfry Route, turn your visits into exclusive benefits at Teritoria houses. Because history is not just to be admired, it is to be experienced.

Cover photo: Drôme Provençale © Shutterstock /Serge Goujon

For an escape from the summer crowds, head to the Drôme Provençale: lavender fields that stretch as far as the eye can see, medieval villages clinging to hillsides, unspoilt nature, and a unique heritage. A region to discover at your own pace, in harmony with the seasons.

An immersion in the Drôme countryside

Between Lyon and Marseille lies the Drôme, a land of authentic villages, wide open spaces, and monumental mountains. And what better way to discover it than by immersing yourself in its villages and escaping the crowds?

The Cliffs of Vercors

From the Col de Rousset to the cliffs of the Vercors, lovers of the great outdoors will be in their element. The Drôme mountains have so much to offer: rolling hills, breathtaking views of the Alps, and wildlife in its natural habitat…

Best of all, you can enjoy these discoveries on foot, along hiking trails, or by canoe, through the gorges and rivers of the Vercors, in both summer and winter!

The lavender fields in front of Grignan Castle

Perched between the plains and mountains of the Drôme Provençale, the Château de Grignan overlooks the village that shares its name. A symbol of Renaissance architecture and French Classicism, the château has stood watch over the region since the 11th century. Witness to major chapters of French history, it was only listed as a Historic Monument and awarded the Musée de France label in 1993.

Yet the Château de Grignan remains vibrant: every year from June to July, lavender blankets the surrounding plains, creating a striking contrast between deep purple fields and the silhouette of Mont Ventoux.

The Baronnies Provençales Regional Nature Park

The Drôme is an unspoiled green haven, rich in diverse landscapes. Take time to explore it on foot, with hikes through its natural parks.

Let yourself be awed by the raw beauty of green cliffs, endless lavender fields, winding rivers, and ancient aqueducts.

Perched villages and Provençal lifestyle

To truly experience the region’s unique beauty, start by visiting its authentic villages and meeting local artisans.

Montbrun-les-bains  

Ranked among the “Most Beautiful Villages in France“, Montbrun-les-Bains quickly reveals why: nestled against a green mountainside, its white-stone medieval houses dot the landscape. In the heart of a valley that shifts from green to purple with the seasons, the village rises like a rocky spur, watching over the region.

Wander through flower-lined old streets and take time to slow down, discovering the Drôme lifestyle: authentic, sustainable, and humble.

Poët-Laval 

Another jewel of the Drôme Provençale, this typical village isn’t just a place to visit, it’s a place to discover. Take the time to admire its whitewashed walls, stroll along its cobbled streets, meet passionate shopkeepers, and listen to local stories…

An authentic and unspoilt place opens up before you!

Suze-la-Rousse 

It wasn’t the inhabitants who gave the town its name, but the colour of its stone. The cobbled streets, the ancient walls of Provençal houses, and the medieval castle perched above the town all share a golden hue that invites you to wander. The castle has lived many lives, royal residence, village church, and now a university dedicated to wine.

In the heart of the vineyards, Suze-la-Rousse invites you to discover its winegrowing heritage and the people behind it.

La Roche-sur-Grâne 

With its strong Drôme identity, mountain dotted with white stone houses, and generous sunshine, La Roche-sur-Grâne stands out as a model of ecological responsibility. The Centre Les Amarins embodies this commitment through agroecology, offering young people hands-on training, farm immersion programs, and all the tools needed to build sustainable skills. Deeply invested in renewable energy and a more conscious way of life, the organisation aligns perfectly with Teritoria’s mission. A place well worth discovering.

A region to taste and discover

In Nyons, olive trees cling to the gentle slopes like guardians of a thousand-year-old heritage. Black olives are cultivated here with patience and passion. At the Maison des Huiles d’Olive, the aromas are captivating, fresh herbs, almonds, lavender, green apples… Each drop tells the story of the land and time-honoured techniques. A little further on, flowers fill the hills with their fragrance. At the distillery, you can watch them slowly transformed into precious essences, among stills and rising blue steam.

Then comes Montélimar, with its picture-postcard charm. Here, nougat is more than just a sweet treat, it’s a promise of childhood. In artisan workshops, warm honey is blended with roasted almonds, stirred by hand, poured into moulds, and cut with a wire. It’s an ode to craftsmanship and slow indulgence, far from the hustle and bustle.

But the highlight of the trip is Hauterives. Here, a humble postman, Ferdinand Cheval, spent 33 years building a palace straight from his dreams. Day after day, stone by stone, collected during his rounds, he sculpted the Palais Idéal, a strange, fragile, and monumental creation inspired by Hindu temples, medieval castles, and natural caves. A world apart, shaped by patience, obsession, and raw beauty.

In the Drôme, everything takes time. Nothing is rushed; everything is sincere. Here, you’ll rediscover a taste for simple pleasures, the magic of slowness, and the poetry of forgotten gestures. It’s as much an inner journey as a geographical one, a return to what truly matters. To help you prepare for this return to the essentials, sign up for our newsletter for inspiration and enjoy rewards through our loyalty programme. Because the Drôme is also a lifestyle to be shared, explore our gift cards and gift boxes, and invite your loved ones to experience the journey too.

By Émilie FALLOT NGUYEN  

Cover photo: Cable car above the landscapes of Cantal ©Shutterstock / jef77

The Auvergne Cheese Route highlights five PDO cheeses: Cantal, Saint-Nectaire, Fourme d’Ambert, Bleu d’Auvergne, and Salers. Each offers guaranteed quality and distinct local character. Unlike wine routes, there is no fixed itinerary, but Teritoria recommends discovering these dairy specialties by visiting the towns that share their names.

Saint-Nectaire  

This soft cow’s milk cheese is known for its creaminess and distinctive flavour. Its savoir-faire even dates back to the court of Louis XIV.

In a curve of the Couze Chambon valley lies the small town of Saint-Nectaire. Take your time to wander through it and discover its exceptional Romanesque church, perched atop Mont Cornadore and ranked among the top five Romanesque monuments in Auvergne. Admire the raw beauty of its white stones, hewn from volcanic lava, a reminder that Auvergne is an ancient volcanic land, where thousand-year-old rock lends the church its distinctive colour.

This unique volcanic identity is reflected in the town’s landscapes, from the old spa resort along the Courançon stream to the salt marsh and the petrifying water cave, which adds to the town’s charm. Saint-Nectaire has been awarded a Michelin Travel & Culture Star, recognising the site’s natural and artistic authenticity. When visiting Saint-Nectaire, don’t miss the Fontaine Pétrifiée (Petrified Fountain), a striking natural wonder known for its calcite formations. The water from the cave is exceptionally rare and has even inspired works of art.

Just a stone’s throw from Saint-Nectaire lies Freydefont-Saint-Nectaire and its dairy farm. Join passionate farmers as they take you through the making of Saint-Nectaire cheese, from milking (at 6 p.m., Monday to Saturday) to lactic fermentation (from 10:30 a.m. each morning).

Fourme d’Ambert 

The word “fourme” might sound familiar, but do you know what it means? It comes from Old French and originally referred to the mould or container used to shape cheese made from rennet or curdled milk. Over time, the word came to refer to the cheese itself: “fourmage” eventually became “fromage”. Today, only Fourme d’Ambert retains this historic name, a fitting link to its past, especially for a cheese made using mould from rye bread.

Ambert, officially recognised as a cycling town, lies in the plain that shares its name, surrounded by the Monts du Forez and the Monts du Livradois. Originally known for the high quality of its paper, used in the first editions of the Encyclopaedia in 1751, the town is home to several architectural treasures. Among them: the Gothic parish church of Saint-Jean and the Dolmen de Boisseyre, both listed as Historic Monuments. And don’t miss Ambert’s distinctive circular town hall, said to resemble the shape of a Fourme d’Ambert cheese!

In the heart of the town, the Maison de la Fourme d’Ambert has been welcoming visitors from Tuesday to Saturday since the 14th century. It offers a chance to explore the history of this iconic cheese and understand how it’s made. After a delicious tasting in the cellar, set off to discover the jasseries, traditional wooden and granite huts with hollow tile roofs, and learn about the seasonal dwellings used by farmers during the summer months. Taste the sweet and savoury flavours of Auvergne’s PDO cheeses, watch the cheese-making process from curdling to tasting, and don’t miss the butter churn!

Bleu d’Auvergne  

A must-try on the Auvergne Cheese Route, Bleu d’Auvergne is a raw milk cheese made with rye bread mould. It has a creamy ivory texture, blue-green veining, and a delicate floral aroma.

This cheese originates from the small village of Laqueuille, perched at 1,050 metres in the heart of the Auvergne Volcanoes Natural Park, the highest village in the region. With just 500 inhabitants, Laqueuille was once known as La Colha, meaning ‘shepherd’s hut’ in the local Pyrenean dialect. It is here, on this ancient rocky outcrop, that the famous Bleu d’Auvergne is matured for at least 28 days in cellars, with regular pricking to encourage the growth of Penicillium roqueforti. Its story is brought to life at the Laqueuille Museum, through exhibitions and shows blending provocation and banditry…

As you pass through this small, authentic village, let yourself be charmed by the Monts Dore during a hike to La Banne or the Trador Waterfall. As you climb toward the hamlet of Trador, a geological fault reveals a natural waterfall. Formed from ancient lava flows, the cooled rock fractured into striking polygonal columns known as ‘organs’.

Salers  

A member of the Auvergne PDO label since 1961, Salers cheese is made from raw milk collected from local farms and aged for seven months in wooden moulds. From April to September, the region’s red cows graze on lush pastures, producing a uniquely rich milk.

The produce here is as colourful as the little town of Salers itself. Perched at 950 metres in the Monts Cantaliens, this medieval village is listed among France’s ‘Sites Remarquables du Goût’ (Remarkable Sites of Taste). Visitors can explore the Church of Saint-Mathieu and the old bourgeois houses built from volcanic stone and slate. Sports enthusiasts will enjoy the ‘La Pastourelle’ trail, which offers breathtaking views of the Cantal region, whether by mountain bike or on foot.

Just a few kilometres from the village of Salers, the farm “Les Burons de Salers” invites you to discover the history of the region’s famous cheese, gentian liqueur, and the local speciality: truffade.

Cantal  

Last but not least on the Auvergne Cheese Route is Cantal, named after the ancient Gaulish-Celtic word Cantalo, meaning ‘borders.’ This sparsely populated mountainous département offers raw, untamed beauty across a range of landscapes and weather conditions: green rolling valleys, glaciers, lava flows, lakes, and of course, AOP cheeses.

Cantal is the oldest cheese in the region, with a history stretching back nearly 2,000 years. Its distinctive flavour comes from the rich pastures of the Cantal region and a preparation process that includes over 30 hours of cellar ageing.

This explains why there are different types of Cantal, depending on how long they’ve been aged: the youngest is less than two months old, the mature variety is aged for over six months, and the older it is, the more intense its flavour.

No more searching for brown signs to guide you along the Auvergne Cheese Route, you now have everything you need to meet producers and discover their savoir-faire. To explore more routes celebrating local produce and our regions, subscribe to our newsletter. Extend the experience with a gourmet getaway using our gift cards and boxes, valid at all our partner establishments in Auvergne and beyond. Perfect for lovers of local flavours, our loyalty programme offers exclusive benefits at every stage of your journey, for ever more authentic stays.

By Émilie FALLOT NGUYEN  

Cover photo: aerial view of the French village of Locronan, in Finistère, Brittany © Shutterstock /photofort77

Listed as a Historic Monument since 1924, Locronan is one of Brittany’s most prestigious sites, known for its traditional Breton architecture. Steeped in Celtic beliefs, a centuries-old textile heritage, and landscapes that have inspired some of the greatest painters, Locronan is a hidden gem waiting to be discovered.

Locronan: Between Sea, Mountains, and Belief

Nestled in the heart of the mountains and perched above the sea, Locronan stands as a beacon of ancestral Breton beliefs. Once a sacred site for the Celts, it hosts the Troménie every six years, a ritual procession calling for forgiveness. For the occasion, locals and visitors don traditional Bigouden costumes.

A land of miracles, Locronan is said to be the site of fertility wonders, particularly at the Church of Saint Ronan. This legend is believed to have inspired the name of the Bois du Névet, derived from ‘Németon‘, meaning ‘natural temple under the vault of heaven’ in Breton. The Church of Saint Ronan also features twelve remarkable points, symbolising the twelve months of the year and twelve male and female deities.

All these symbols reinforced fertility beliefs and drew visitors seeking blessings to conceive. Even the Duke and Duchess of Brittany are said to have visited in 1905 to pray for an heir and the continuation of their line. The church was officially listed as a Historic Monument in 1845.

Locronan is steeped in Celtic legends. On the Saturday before the first Sunday in May, young men who have come of age plant a beech tree, a symbol of spring’s awakening.

Similarly, the first day of November marks the beginning of the Celtic year, a gateway to a powerful night. On this night, the great festival of Samonios takes place, when communication between the world of the living and the dead becomes possible. Bread for the dead is distributed until the first Sunday in November.

Locronan, the hemp and flax route in Brittany

Thanks to the renown of the Church of Saint Ronan, Locronan prospered with the arrival of visitors, which boosted the work of craftsmen, merchants, and minor nobles, all of whom contributed to the creation of the city of weavers.

Brittany’s climate and abundant streams made it possible to cultivate hemp and flax in Locronan as early as the 15th century. Since then, the town and its textiles have gained lasting renown, used to outfit the largest ships of the French kingdom, including the Armada and even the ships of Christopher Columbus. The Hôtel de la Compagnie des Indes, founded in 1689 by Jean-Baptiste Colbert, worked closely with the Bureau des Toiles, established in 1669, to inspect fabric quality and stamp them with the “Locronan” mark before export. Today, the Hôtel de la Compagnie des Indes is open to visitors, offering a deep dive into the history of maritime exploration.

Flax and hemp grown in France are among the most sustainable and eco-friendly textiles. Their cultivation requires no excessive irrigation or chemicals, significantly reducing their environmental impact. Grown locally, they avoid long-distance transport and support short supply chains. In addition to being biodegradable, these fibres are strong, durable, and make use of the entire plant. Hemp, in particular, absorbs large amounts of CO₂ and helps regenerate the soil. Unlike cotton or polyester, their production is simple, clean, and local.

The painters’ route in Cornuaille

Brittany has long inspired artists, and the Charles Daniélou Art Museum is living proof. Founded by the mayor of Locronan, who also served as a minister during the Third Republic, the museum houses a collection of paintings celebrating the beauty of the region. Works by Emile Simon, Désiré Lucas, Kamesuke Hiraga, Yvonne Jean-Haffen, and others bear witness to Brittany’s vibrant artistic life in the 20th century.

The museum presents works from the town’s collection, including Les Eaux-Fortes by Marie-Renée Chevalier-Kervern, paintings by Henri Le Sidaner, and a large canvas by Odette Pauvert, the first woman to win the Prix de Rome in 1925, now on display for the first time since its restoration in 2019. This piece, designated a National Treasure, is also protected as a Historic Monument. The museum also features works donated by Charles Daniélou (1878–1953) and Rector Maurice Dilasser. Finally, the sculpture Anne de Bretagne by Jean Fréour, acquired by the town in 2018, greets visitors at the entrance.

Locronan among the “most beautiful villages in France”

Tucked away in the Finistère region, Locronan stands watch in the early hours of summer, as golden light brushes its façades, highlighting finely carved dormer windows and making the slate roofs sparkle. On the main square, the houses gently encircle the Saint-Ronan Church and its Pénity Chapel, like a silent theatre.

Inside, stained glass windows and the pulpit recount the legends of the saint. Outside, narrow streets lined with old houses invite you to stroll. Here, no cars break the spell, only wooden signs, discreet shopfronts, and the aroma of warm kouign-amann guide your steps. Let yourself be enchanted by the mystical charm of Brittany with our gift cards and gift boxes, perfect for treating yourself or someone special to a stay in the region.

Discover more legends from Brittany and beyond in our newsletter. Already under Brittany’s spell? Join our loyalty programme and be rewarded for your loyalty.

By Emilie FALLOT NGUYEN